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Blvd des Italiens
The Boulevard des Italiens became very fashionable in the middle
of the 19th century. It was lined with cafes and restaurants which
the 'beau monde' frequented, #22 Cafe Tortoni, #20 Maison Doree,
the meeting place for fashionable Paris, No. 16 Cafe Riche. The
boulevard got its name from the Opera-Comique, which was commonly
called 'the Italiens'. Cafe de la Paix is the quintessential 19th
century cafe and was designed by the same architect, Garnier, as
the Opera. It was a frequent haunt of Oscar Wilde. Nearby in Rue
Scribe, where the Hotel Scribe now stands, used to be the exclusive
Jockey Club and it was here the Lumiere brothers held the world's
first public cinema screening in 1895. L'Olympia Music Hall, in
bd. Des Capucines was where Edith Piaf achieved fame, and it is
still an important venue for pop stars.
The Grand Boulevards
The Grand Boulevards were built in 1705 where the the old walls
around Paris were demolished and by about 1750 the Boulevard (the
original name) had became fashionable where the nobility and rich
built their homes and Parisians would sit and watch the horse carriages
and riders pass by. The east end, the Boulevard du Temple, became
a center of theatres and dance halls, circuses, waxworks, puppets,
dancers, acrobats, mechanical figures, cafes, restaurants, booths
and barrows. This lasted for about 100 years.
There are some pretty covered passages off the Grand Boulevards, as
Passage Jouffroy and Passage Verdeau (book and print dealers).
Musée Grevin
Wax museum (approximately 500 characters) scenes from French history
and the present day.
Department Stores
Blvd. Haussmann is the home of the department stores Au Printemps,
opened in 1864, and Galeries Lafayette, opened in 1894. Galeries
Lafayette has a magnificent stained glass dome. It carries all
the great fashion names, and has great (free) fashion shows each
week. It is always very busy so best to go in the morning. There
is a a nice self-service restaurant on the 6th floor with views
over the Opera. Au Printemps also has a weekly fashion show which
is held in the 6th floor tea salon beneath a Belle Epoque blue
stained-glass rotunda.
Opera Garnier
The Opera Garnier was the 'piece de resistance' of Napoleon III and
Baron Haussmann. Its opulence, inside and out, its mixture of architectural
styles, its red and gold decor some may think a little flamboyant,
but for all that, it is magnificent. It was once the world's largest
theater and is famed for its 6-ton chandelier and Chagall painted
ceiling depicting Parisian scenes and images from opera. Backstage
is the Foyer de la Danse so often painted by Degas and beneath the
cellars there lies an artificial lake, providing water for the city's
fire brigade, that was the fictional grotto of Lerous' Phantom of
the Opera. The Opera Garnier mainly stages ballets now days, operas
which have moved to the Opera Bastille.
Rue Montorgueil
This is a trendy area with an eclectic mix of cafes, bars and food
stores set amid old, interesting streets and houses. Of particular
interest is the ‘L 'Escargot Montorgueil’ at #38 as it
is one of the most authentic examples of 1830's decor in Paris and
a well known restaurant specializing in snails. At #51 is ‘Strohers’,
founded in 1730 by the former pastry chef of Louis XV.
The Palais Royal & Gardens
The Palais
Royal was constructed for Cardinal Richelieu in 1628.
On the southwest corner is the Comedie Francaise and on the northwest
corner is the 4-star 'Grand Vefour', an haute cuisine restaurant
since the 1760s. The Palais Royal was home to Colette and Jean
Cocteau.
Continued...
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